Cape Coast & Elmina

These two towns hold the most consequential historic sites in Ghana, and they are best seen together: Cape Coast Castle and Elmina Castle sit about 20 minutes apart. It suits travellers who want this history told honestly rather than softened, and who are willing to sit with what they learn.

STC and VIP buses leave Accra's Kaneshie and Circle stations through the morning and take about 3 hours to Cape Coast; tro-tros from Kaneshie take 3.5-4 hours. Elmina is a further 15-20 minutes west by taxi or tro-tro. From Takoradi it is about 2 hours east by road.

Taxis and shared taxis handle Cape Coast town and the run to Elmina; agree the fare before you get in. Tro-tros link the two towns cheaply but stop often. The historic core around Cape Coast Castle and Kotokuraba Market is walkable if you don't mind heat and hills.

• Book castle tours early in the day. Groups are smaller, the heat is bearable and guides have more time for questions.
• Pay the official fee at the gate rather than unofficial guides who approach you outside; the money should reach the site.
• Elmina's fishing harbour deserves an hour of its own, especially when the canoes come in. Ask before photographing people at work.
• Fante food is a highlight: kenkey with fried fish and pepper, and banku with grilled tilapia along the coast road.