Takoradi, Busua & the Western coast

The Western coast is where Ghanaians go for a proper beach weekend: Busua's surf, the stilt village of Nzulezu, old forts and seafood straight off the canoes. It suits surfers, slow travellers and anyone who wants coast without the resort packaging.

STC and VIP buses run Accra to Takoradi in 4-5 hours. Busua is a further 30-45 minutes west by taxi or tro-tro, and Dixcove is just beyond it. From Cape Coast the drive is about 2 hours. Nzulezu means continuing to Beyin, then a canoe across the lagoon.

Taxis and tro-tros connect Takoradi, Agona, Busua and Dixcove, but service thins after dark. For Nzulezu and the forts, base yourself in Busua or Beyin and hire a taxi for the day. Surfboards can be rented in Busua rather than carried in.

• Nzulezu canoe tours are best in the morning before the wind picks up; agree the canoe fee and the guide fee before you set off.
• Busua's surf is beginner-friendly for much of the year, but currents are strong: swim near others and ask locals about conditions.
• Seafood is cheapest and best where the canoes land. Dixcove and Busua both have simple kitchens doing grilled fish.
• Bring cash. Card acceptance outside Takoradi's hotels is limited and ATMs can be unreliable.